The Old Town of Taranto: the ancient quarter built on an island between the two seas, among narrow alleys, noble palazzi, churches and San Cataldo Cathedral.
History
The Old Town, which the Tarantines simply call "the island", is Taranto's historic heart: a strip of land between the Mar Grande and the Mar Piccolo, linked to the rest of the city by two bridges — the Swing Bridge to the south, towards the Borgo Umbertino, and the Stone Bridge to the north-west, towards the new city.
Here stood the acropolis of ancient Taras. But the Old Town as we see it was born a second time: after the devastating Saracen sack of 927, the Byzantine emperor Nikephoros II Phokas — considered the city's "second founder" — brought architects from Greece to rebuild it.
It was then that the famous ultra-narrow alleys took shape, true defensive masterpieces: so tight as to hinder the advance of invaders. Some are so narrow they remain in shadow all year round.
What to see
The island's main artery is via Duomo, whose course dates back to the Roman age. Onto it and the surrounding alleys face the noble palazzi (Palazzo Pantaleo, Palazzo d'Ayala Valva), dozens of churches — San Cataldo Cathedral, San Domenico Maggiore built on a Greek temple, Sant'Andrea degli Armeni — and a web of crypts, hypogea and convents.
On the Mar Piccolo side stretches the "ringhiera", the balcony walk where nobles and clergy once lived, and the fishermen's quays with their traps: a world of maritime daily life suspended in time. Among the alleys, the romantic Vicoletto Marcanti, the "lovers' alley", so narrow it forces passers-by to brush against each other.
The Old Town is also the cradle of the Tarantine dialect, a unique tongue born of the blending of Greek, Latin, Arabic, Spanish, French and Neapolitan. After decades of depopulation, the island is slowly coming back to life thanks to the university campus, restorations and new B&Bs and workshops.
Did you know…
- The alleys were made ultra-narrow as a defence: tight enough to stop invaders.
- The 'Vicoletto Marcanti' is called the lovers' alley because it forces you to brush past.
- The Old Town is one of the most extensive historic centres in Puglia.
- Over 30,000 people once lived here; today a few thousand, but the island is being reborn.
Practical information
| Hours | — |
|---|---|
| Ticket | — |
| Accessibility | Cobbled alleys, steps and slopes: comfortable shoes are essential. |
| Getting there | Reached on foot from the Swing Bridge (from the Borgo Umbertino) or the Stone Bridge (from the new city). |
Tips for your visit
- Don't follow a rigid route: the Old Town is discovered by getting lost in the alleys.
- Descend the postern steps towards the Mar Piccolo views and the 'ringhiera'.
- Visit San Cataldo Cathedral and look for the lovers' alley.
- At sunset, watch the island lit up from the sea side: it's magical.